Error 10–3, also labeled FAE3, means the dishwasher’s drying fan doesn’t run as expected. The control looks for fan operation during the dry phase (often after final rinse and drain, especially when ProDry™/Heated Dry is enabled). If the fan won’t start, stalls, or the control can’t read its feedback, the machine flags 10–3 and drying performance drops—dishes emerge wet, with lingering moisture on plastics and in the tub corners.
What You’ll Notice
You might hear the final drain and pump-out, then silence where you’d expect a soft fan whir. The tub feels humid when you open the door, glasses bead with water, and the error appears at cycle end or on the next power-up. On some models, condensation remains on the inner door and upper rack even after a long dry.
Safety First
Unplug the dishwasher or switch off the dedicated breaker before any inspection. Drying fans sit near wiring and the vent path; power off protects both you and the control electronics.
Why the Code Triggers
Three buckets cause most 10–3 events. First, wiring continuity: a loose plug at the fan, oxidized spade terminals, or a stressed section of harness that opens under heat and vibration. Second, fan assembly faults: a seized or noisy motor, a cracked impeller, or lint/scale that binds the blades. Third, control output or feedback issues: the board never sends proper power to the fan, or it can’t read a tach/feedback signal on models that monitor fan speed.
Where to Start (Methodical, No Guesswork)
With power disconnected, remove the toe-kick and, if needed, the inner door panel to access the fan module and its harness. Reseat the fan connector until the latch clicks, then do the same at the main control. Look closely at the terminals for darkened plastic, green/white oxidation, or pins backed out of the plug; any of these create intermittent opens that only show up when the tub gets hot. Trace the harness along its path and relieve any sharp bends or pinch points that could fracture small-gauge wires.
Evaluating the Fan Assembly
Spin the fan’s impeller gently by hand. It should turn freely with a smooth, even feel—no scraping, no gritty spots. A stiff or wobbly shaft signals worn bushings or a warped wheel that will stall once hot. If the assembly includes a small tach or feedback sensor, make sure its pickup gap looks consistent and the target on the impeller hasn’t shifted or cracked. Clean out lint, hard-water dust, or detergent residue around the vent channel—debris can drag on the blades and mimic an electrical failure.
Electrical Checks That Help
If you use a multimeter, keep the power off for continuity checks. Confirm the fan’s windings show a stable, finite resistance (not open, not short). Measure continuity end-to-end on the two wires feeding the fan from the control; flex the harness gently while testing to expose intermittent breaks. If your model uses a neutral return or separate feedback lead, verify that path as well. Only when the fan and wiring test good should you suspect a control-board output fault.
Reassemble and Verify
Restore power and run a short cycle that includes a heated dry (or enable ProDry™/Extended Dry). Listen for the fan at the end: a healthy unit ramps to a soft, steady whir. Open the door a few minutes after completion—the inner door should feel appreciably drier, and plastic items should hold fewer droplets. If the code returns immediately after a verified-good fan and harness, the main control likely isn’t driving the output correctly and will need attention.
Practical Fix Order
Most recoveries come from simple connection work and a clean, free-spinning fan. When the impeller binds or the motor measures open/erratic, replace the drying fan assembly as a unit to restore both the motor and wheel geometry. Move to the control board only after you’ve proven the new fan and the harness can’t be at fault.
Keep the Error From Coming Back
Use rinse aid and enable the appropriate heated-dry option for your load; both reduce moisture load on the fan. Periodically wipe the vent area and the upper inner door to prevent detergent dust and hard-water scale from accumulating near the fan intake. Make sure the dishwasher sits level—pooled water on an out-of-level door evaporates poorly and encourages residue that can foul the vent path over time.