FdL indicates the washer cannot complete its lock sequence. During startup the control sends power to the door-lock assembly, expects the internal switch to report “locked,” and retries the sequence up to six times. If it never receives a clean locked signal—or if the lock reports locked when physically open—the control posts FdL and halts the cycle for safety.
How it usually shows up.
You press Start, the door latch clicks several times, the pump may run briefly, and then the machine stops with FdL. In some cases the door remains physically unlocked; in others the latch catches but the control still thinks it’s open. You might also notice intermittent behavior: the washer runs one day and fails the next, which often points to a loose connector, a worn micro-switch inside the lock, or door alignment that only sometimes engages the switch.
First actions and safety.
Cut power at the outlet or breaker before you touch the lock or open panels. Powering down protects both you and the control electronics. After the machine sits for a minute, restore power and try a single restart; if the code returns immediately, move to inspection rather than repeated resets.
What to inspect and why it matters.
Open the door and look closely at the strike (the metal or plastic tongue on the door) and the receiver in the cabinet. A bent strike or a door that sags on its hinges won’t push the lock far enough to flip the internal switch, so the control never “sees” locked. Close the door gently and watch the alignment: the strike should enter squarely without scraping. Next, de-energize the washer again and access the area around the lock (it mounts on the cabinet flange). Check that the lock module sits firmly against the cabinet with all mounting screws tight; a loose module shifts during vibration and misses the switch point. Follow the small harness from the lock to the cabinet interior and reseat the connector until its latch clicks. Do the same at the Central Control Unit (CCU): a partially seated plug or oxidized pin can interrupt the lock signal even when the mechanism works perfectly.
Deeper checks without turning it into a teardown.
If the door alignment and connectors look good but FdL persists, examine the lock closely for heat discoloration, cracked plastic around the cam, or a sticky feel when you move the latch tab by hand (power off). The internal micro-switches should actuate crisply; a sluggish or “mushy” switch often reports neither fully open nor fully closed, which confuses the control and triggers FdL after several retries. Moisture is another culprit. Steam or spilled detergent that creeps into the lock housing can corrode the switch or gum up the cam. Let the area dry completely before testing again, and wipe away residue around the latch slot so the mechanism moves freely.
Understanding the electronics behind the symptom.
The control monitors a simple state change from the lock assembly. If wiring between the lock and CCU opens intermittently, the control interprets that drop as “door opened” and aborts. Conversely, a shorted switch can claim “locked” even when the door is open, which the control treats as a fault during pre-spin checks. That’s why reseating connectors and confirming harness integrity often solves intermittent FdL without replacing parts.
Repair logic that saves time.
Work from alignment and connection to components. Realign the door and strike so the latch engages squarely, tighten the lock mounting screws, and reseat both ends of the harness. If the error returns after a clean alignment and reconnect, replace the door lock assembly as a unit; it bundles the motor/solenoid and switches and removes the most common failure points in one step. Consider the CCU only if a known-good lock assembly and verified wiring still produce FdL, because control failures are much rarer than mechanical or switch faults.
After the fix—how to verify success.
Power up the washer and start a quick cycle. The door should lock decisively on the first attempt, the indicator should confirm the lock, and the drum should begin to tumble without delay. Cancel the cycle, wait for the unlock delay to expire, and confirm the door releases promptly. Run a full wash afterward to make sure the lock holds through fill, wash, and spin without throwing FdL.
Prevention that actually helps.
Avoid slamming the door; repeated impact loosens hinges and shifts the strike out of alignment. Keep liquid cleaners and steam away from the latch slot, and wipe any spills immediately. If you routinely wash bulky loads, distribute items evenly so the door doesn’t flex under strain, and check the lock screws a couple of times per year to make sure vibration hasn’t loosened them. These small habits keep the mechanism aligned, the switches clean, and the washer free of FdL interruptions.