Code 1E points to a fault in the freezer temperature sensor circuit. The control reads that sensor continuously to manage compressor run time, defrost timing, and fan behavior. When the signal looks open (infinite resistance) or shorted (near-zero resistance), the control can’t trust the reading and raises 1E.
How it shows up in the freezer
You may see drifting or unstable freezer temps, long run times with poor cooling, short cycling, or ice cream that softens and re-freezes. In some cases the display flags 1E immediately at power-up; in others it appears after several minutes of operation when the control validates the sensor.
What that sensor actually is
KitchenAid uses an NTC thermistor (a heat-sensitive resistor) mounted on or near the evaporator cover/back wall in the freezer. As temperature drops, its resistance changes along a known curve. The main board compares that value to the target setpoint. If the board reads an impossible value—or no value at all—it assumes the sensor or its wiring has failed.
First checks you can do safely
Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the dedicated breaker before touching anything inside the compartment. Let the fans stop, remove the freezer drawer or shelves as needed, and visually inspect the sensor area. Look for a broken pigtail, a connector pulled loose, crushed insulation, or ice buildup that has tugged on the lead. Reseat the sensor connector until it clicks, then follow the harness as far as you can toward the cabinet pass-through to ensure it isn’t pinched.
Verifying the sensor and harness
If you have a multimeter, disconnect the sensor and measure its resistance at room temperature; it should read a finite, stable value (not “OL” and not ~0 Ω) and change smoothly if you gently warm the sensor between your fingers or cool it with an ice pack. An unchanging or erratic reading points to a failed sensor. If the sensor checks out, measure continuity from the sensor connector back toward the main control (accessible from the rear of the fridge on most models). A broken conductor or corroded pin will mimic a bad sensor and trigger 1E even when the thermistor itself is fine. Exact resistance targets depend on model and thermistor type, so compare your readings to the resistance–temperature table on the tech sheet for your unit.
Don’t miss airflow and frost conditions
A massive frost blanket on the evaporator can skew temperature around the sensor and stress the wiring. If you see heavy frost after removing the back panel, clear it fully, then look for the reason: a door that doesn’t seal, a torn gasket, a blocked return air channel, or a failed/iced-over evaporator fan. While these aren’t the primary cause of a 1E (which is a circuit fault), they can aggravate intermittent connector issues and should be corrected during the same service.
The practical repair path
Start by reseating and cleaning the connectors, then retest. If 1E returns and the thermistor fails the resistance test or responds erratically to temperature, replace the freezer thermistor. If the sensor measures correctly but the control still reports an open/short, repair or replace the sensor harness section that shows high resistance or intermittent continuity. Only consider the main control board after you’ve confirmed a good sensor and a clean, intact harness, because board input failures are far less common.
Power-up and verification
After any repair, restore power and let the unit run. Confirm the error clears on the display, the evaporator fan runs, and the compressor cycles normally. Place a reference thermometer in the freezer and watch the temperature drop steadily toward the setpoint. Over the next few hours, verify that the unit reaches and holds the target temperature without fluctuations.
Preventing a repeat
Keep door gaskets clean and fully seated so moisture doesn’t accumulate and freeze around the sensor. Avoid overpacking the freezer; blocking vents forces localized cold spots and can trap ice around wiring. During deep cleans, don’t pull on the sensor lead or use hot water/steam directly on the sensor head—both can damage the thermistor or wick moisture into the connector.
If you want, share your model number and I’ll map the exact sensor part ID and the resistance–temperature values your board expects, so you can test once and be certain.