Error 25E points to a defrost-system fault. The control has detected either an “open” defrost heater circuit (no current flow when the board calls for heat) or an abnormal defrost event that runs far too long, typically beyond about eighty minutes. Because the defrost heater protects the evaporator from ice accumulation, a failure here quickly turns into warm temperatures, weak airflow, and frost-packed coils behind the rear freezer panel.
How the Defrost System Should Work
During normal operation, the evaporator coil gets cold and collects moisture as frost. At scheduled intervals the control pauses the compressor and fans, energizes the defrost heater below or around the coil, and watches temperature rise through a thermistor or a high-limit thermostat. When the sensor reports the coil has cleared, the control ends the cycle and restarts cooling. If the heater never warms the coil—or warms it for too long without the sensor confirming progress—the board records 25E.
Typical Symptoms You’ll Notice
Airflow through the freezer weakens, the fresh-food section climbs a few degrees even though the compressor seems to run more often, and you may hear the fan scrape ice after door openings. In severe cases, the freezer back panel bulges with frost and the unit struggles to recover after defrost, repeating the error.
Likely Root Causes
An open heating element leaves the coil frozen solid; a blown thermal cutoff or high-limit thermostat opens the circuit even though the element itself is intact; a disconnected or oxidized harness breaks continuity at the heater terminals; a failed or misreading thermistor misleads the control into running defrost far too long; and more rarely, a stuck relay or logic fault on the control board keeps the heater energized beyond its normal window. Mechanical contributors such as a warped door gasket or frequent, long door openings can accelerate frost load and push borderline components over the edge.
Safe Initial Actions
Disconnect power before any inspection. Give the cabinet a few minutes to discharge, then remove the freezer rear panel only if the ice load allows. A gentle warm-water thaw of the panel seam, applied carefully with towels in place, prevents damage as you access the compartment. Once open, you can visually confirm whether the evaporator is encased in white frost, a classic sign that heat never arrived during defrost.
How to Confirm the Fault Without Turning It Into a Teardown
With power still off, examine the heater terminals and the nearby harness connectors for loose fits, heat discoloration, or green/white oxidation. If you have a multimeter, measure continuity directly across the heater; a healthy element reads finite resistance, not “open.” Continue by checking the thermal cutoff or high-limit thermostat in series with the heater; if that protector has opened, the heater will also read open until you test the protector individually. When the wiring and heater check out, turn to the defrost thermistor: a sensor that reads wildly out of range—or that has poor contact at the coil—prevents the board from ending defrost on time, which can also trigger 25E’s “over-duration” branch.
When the Error Points to Control or Sensor Logic
If the heater and safety devices show good continuity, connectors fit tightly, and the coil clearly melts during a manual defrost call, the issue likely sits with sensing or control. A thermistor that reports the same temperature regardless of coil condition, a loose sensor strapped poorly to the tubing, or a control board that fails to recognize the thermistor’s rise can all produce the extended-defrost half of 25E. Re-seating the sensor on clean copper, confirming its harness back to the board, and verifying that the board ends a manual defrost at a plausible temperature narrows the fault quickly.
Restoring Normal Operation
After any wiring repair or part replacement, power the unit, allow it to stabilize, and run a controlled defrost through the model’s service procedure if available. Watch for a realistic progression: compressor and fans pause, the heater gently sizzles frost from the bottom of the coil upward, the thermistor temperature rises steadily, and the control exits defrost before the eighty-minute window. Once cooling resumes, confirm that the evaporator fan spins quietly and that airflow at the fresh-food vents grows stronger over the next ten to fifteen minutes.
Preventing a Repeat 25E
Keep door gaskets clean and fully seated so humid room air doesn’t flood the coil with frost. Let hot foods cool before loading, avoid blocking return vents with boxes or trays, and replace water filters on schedule so ice production and cabinet humidity remain stable. A seasonal vacuum of the condenser area helps the sealed system stay efficient, which reduces defrost workload and lengthens the life of heaters, sensors, and controls.
Error 25E is a defrost-system alarm, not a random code. Either the heater circuit has opened and the coil never clears, or the control keeps heating far too long because it doesn’t “see” the coil warming. Verifying heater continuity, safety-device status, sensor accuracy, and harness condition—then confirming the control exits a supervised defrost on time—returns the refrigerator to steady temperatures and reliable airflow.