This code means the control didn’t “see” the door open between cycles. Modern KitchenAid controls expect a clean open-close event to reset safety states, clear residual heat/steam, and confirm that you loaded or adjusted dishes before the next run. If the control never registers that open event, it blocks the next start and shows 5–2 / F5E2.
How It Usually Shows Up
You press Start and the dishwasher beeps or flashes without launching a wash. The panel may accept inputs, but the machine won’t fill. Sometimes the previous cycle completed normally and you never opened the door; in other cases the door was opened physically, but the control didn’t detect it because the latch switch didn’t change state.
Likely Reasons (Explained)
The most common cause is a door-latch switch that fails to report open/closed reliably. Misalignment between the latch and the strike can also keep the switch in a “half” position, so the control never sees a true open. Swollen or sticky door gaskets, debris at the latch pocket, or a slightly sprung door can mimic a closed door even when you tug it open. Less commonly, a wiring issue between the latch and control or a stuck control logic state after a power blip prevents the board from logging the open event.
First Things First — Simple Resets
Cancel the cycle from the panel, then deliberately open the door fully, wait a few seconds, and close it with a firm, square push. Try a fresh cycle. If the machine still refuses to start, remove power for a minute to clear stale logic (switch the breaker off, not just the panel), restore power, open the door once, close it again, and retry. If that works, you likely had a state/logic hang rather than a hardware fault.
Physical Checks That Solve Most Cases
Stand at eye level with the door and watch how the strike enters the latch. It should center cleanly with no scraping. If you see the door racking to one side, adjust the leveling feet so the tub sits square and the door isn’t twisted by the counter. Wipe the latch pocket and the gasket around the top of the door; dried detergent, food particles, or hardened steam residue can hold the latch cam just shy of the switch point. Close the door slowly and listen for a crisp click; a dull, mushy feel points to a tired latch switch or misalignment. If your model has a child lock/control lock, disable it and test again, since lock modes can mimic “won’t start” symptoms.
When the Latch Needs Attention
If a deliberate open-close sequence and a power reset don’t clear the code, focus on the door-latch assembly. A worn switch can report “closed” continuously or fail to report “open” when you crack the door. Replacing the latch assembly restores a fresh switch and cam in one step and is the most reliable fix when alignment and cleaning don’t help. If the code returns after a known-good latch, inspect the harness from the latch to the control for loose connectors, bent pins, or insulation nicks that can interrupt the door-status signal.
After the Fix — Proving It’s Resolved
Power up, open the door fully for a few seconds, and close it firmly; the panel should accept Start and the unit should fill immediately. Let it run a few minutes, then open the door mid-wash to confirm the control sees “open” (wash stops) and “closed” (wash resumes) without error. Run one complete cycle to verify normal operation at the end as well.
How to Prevent a Repeat
Open the door briefly after every cycle to vent steam and register the open event; wipe the latch pocket and the upper gasket during routine cleaning so residue doesn’t bind the cam. Keep racks loaded so they don’t protrude and strike the door, which can shift alignment over time. If you move or re-level the machine, recheck strike-to-latch alignment before the next run.
Bottom line: 5–2 / F5E2 is about the control not detecting a door-open between cycles. Confirm a real open-close event, clear stale logic with a power reset, clean and align the latch area, and replace the latch assembly if the switch no longer reports state changes reliably.