Error 1–1 (also shown as F1E1) indicates the electronic control board has detected a relay that won’t switch as commanded. A relay is a small electromechanical switch on the board that routes power to high-draw loads such as the heater, wash or drain motor, or diverter. When its contacts weld closed or fail to close at all, the control senses an electrical state that doesn’t match the last command and throws the code to prevent damage.
How the problem shows up
You may see the code immediately at power-up, after a brief attempt to start a cycle, or when the machine transitions to heating or pumping. Typical behavior includes a pump or heater that stays on when it shouldn’t, a cycle that halts and drains abruptly, or a unit that refuses to start because the control can’t guarantee safe switching.
Relay contacts handle repeated inrush currents. Over time, arcing can pit and weld the contacts, leaving them permanently closed. Moisture intrusion, corrosion, or a failing load (for example, a motor drawing excessive current) can accelerate contact wear. In rarer cases, the relay coil or the control’s driver circuitry fails, so the relay never actuates even though the board commands it.
First steps and safety
Shut off power at the breaker or unplug the dishwasher for at least five minutes. This clears transient faults and discharges the board. After restoring power, watch whether the code reappears immediately or only when the machine attempts a specific function. If the code returns right away, the control likely “sees” an impossible state at idle, which points to welded contacts or a shorted load. If it appears only when heating or pumping begins, focus on the relay and load associated with that stage.
Guided diagnosis with the tech sheet
Every unit ships with a service/tech sheet (usually behind the toe-kick). Use it to identify which relay controls each load and to access the built-in diagnostics. With power removed, inspect the harnesses at the control: reseat locking connectors, look for heat discoloration, melted housings, or green/white oxidation on terminals. Restore power and enter diagnostics if your model allows it; this forces each component on and off in sequence, helping you link the fault to a specific relay or load. When the sheet provides resistances, disconnect the relevant wires and measure the heater, wash motor, drain pump, and diverter against spec. A component that reads far below normal resistance or shows continuity to chassis ground can overload a relay and cause the “stuck” condition.
Separating a bad board from a bad load
If a load tests out of spec or shows signs of overheating, correct that issue first, because a failing component can weld a new board’s relay again. If all loads measure within spec and the wiring is clean, the control board itself is the most likely failure. Stuck-closed symptoms (power present at a load when the machine is idle) strongly suggest welded contacts; stuck-open behavior (no power to a good load during the commanded step) points to a failed relay coil or driver on the board.
Control board replacement notes
When replacement is indicated, match the full model and revision so you receive the correct board and firmware. Transfer any jumpers or configuration plugs exactly as on the original. Handle the board by its edges, avoid flexing it during installation, and confirm every connector seats with its latch fully engaged. After installation, clear stored errors per the tech sheet and run the service cycle to verify each relay actuates its load cleanly without tripping the code.
Post-repair verification
A healthy system will power up without immediate faults, circulate water quietly, heat at the correct stage, and drain completely. During diagnostics or a short cycle, confirm that the heater energizes only when commanded, that the wash and drain pumps start and stop on cue, and that no component remains energized after the cycle ends.
Keep the kick-space area dry to protect the control from moisture. Clean filters regularly so pumps don’t work against debris. If the home’s water supply contains heavy minerals, descale according to the manual to keep temperatures and heater duty within normal ranges. Stable loads and dry electronics greatly reduce relay wear and the chances of seeing 1–1 / F1E1 again.
1–1 (F1E1) flags a control relay that no longer switches reliably. Use the tech sheet to confirm which load is involved, inspect and test the wiring and components on that circuit, and replace the control board only after ruling out a failing load that could re-weld new contacts. With a clean harness, healthy components, and a correct board, the dishwasher will run full cycles without the error returning.