This code flags a no-fill / low-fill condition. The control expects the tub to start filling at the beginning of a cycle; when the water level doesn’t rise as predicted, it halts and records 6–1 (also rendered as F6E1). Most cases trace to a stuck overfill float, a blocked water path, or a water-inlet valve that isn’t opening or isn’t receiving power.
What the Error Usually Means
Your dishwasher opens the inlet valve and waits for the float switch and pressure logic to confirm water entry. If the overfill float sits “up,” the machine believes the tub is already full and won’t admit water. If the inlet path is starved—by a closed or weak household supply, a kinked line, or a clogged screen—the control times out with 6–1. A failed inlet valve coil or missing line voltage to the valve will create the same symptom.
Safety and Immediate Actions
Unplug the dishwasher (or switch off the breaker) and close the water shutoff under the sink. This prevents accidental fills while you inspect components and protects you from live voltage at the valve.
Overfill Float and Float Switch
Open the door and find the float (usually a small dome or tower at the tub floor). It must move freely with a light fingertip push, then drop back down under its own weight. Food bits, a utensil, or hard water scale can wedge it “up,” which locks out filling. Remove any obstruction and ensure the float’s movement feels clean and crisp. If movement is free yet the machine still reports “full,” the float switch beneath the tub rim may be stuck or misaligned; reseating its connector and verifying that the switch actuates when the float rises often resolves intermittent 6–1 events.
Water Supply and Inlet Screen
Shut the supply off and disconnect the braided or copper supply line from the dishwasher’s inlet valve. Inspect the valve’s inlet screen for grit, sand, or mineral flakes. A loaded screen starves the valve and can allow debris deeper into the body, where it may keep the valve from sealing or opening properly. Clean, then consider replacing a valve whose screen arrived heavily contaminated—debris that made it to the screen often means more is already inside the valve.
Verifying Household Flow
With the line still disconnected from the valve, aim it into a shallow pan and briefly open the shutoff to confirm a strong, steady stream. Weak or no flow points to a closed or failed angle stop, a clogged saddle valve, or upstream plumbing issues. Restore the line to the dishwasher only after you’ve confirmed healthy flow.
Hose Routing and Kinks
Trace the supply hose from the shutoff to the valve, ensuring no sharp bends or kinks behind the cabinet or where it passes through cutouts. Even a partial pinch can limit fill enough to trigger F6E1 without obvious external leaks.
Inlet Valve Power and Wiring
After reassembling the supply, restore power and start a cycle while listening at the kick plate. A healthy valve clicks and hums softly when energized. If you hear nothing and water doesn’t enter, inspect the valve’s wiring connector for a firm latch and clean, untarnished pins. A loose or oxidized connector can leave the valve unpowered. If you’re comfortable with diagnostics and proper safety, you can confirm that the control sends line voltage to the valve during the fill window; absence of voltage with good harness integrity suggests a control-side fault rather than a bad valve coil.
Electronic Control Considerations
When the float moves freely, household flow is strong, the valve screen is clear, and the valve still doesn’t energize, the electronic control board may not be driving the valve circuit. Board failures are less common than float, supply, and valve faults, so rule out mechanical and wiring issues first. If the valve energizes but passes little or no water, replace the valve assembly.
After the Fix — How to Verify
Run a Normal or Quick cycle. You should hear the valve open and see water covering the sump within the first minute. The wash pump will transition to a steady spray pattern, and the machine should proceed without posting 6–1. Cancel the cycle, drain, and repeat once more to confirm consistent filling.
Practical Prevention
Keep the float area clean; don’t let utensils or labels migrate under the dome. Flush new supply lines before attaching them, and prefer braided stainless lines over soft tubing that kinks easily. If your home has heavy sediment or frequent plumbing work, a point-of-use sediment filter ahead of the dishwasher protects the inlet valve and screen. Periodically exercise the under-sink shutoff so it doesn’t seize in a half-open position that starves the dishwasher.