Code 6–3 (F6E3) points to suds or air in the wash pump, most often caused by the wrong detergent or by low water level that prevents the pump from priming. The control sees poor circulation and flags the fault to protect the machine from running dry.
What You’ll Typically See
Cycles get loud or “hissy,” spraying sounds turn weak or uneven, and dishes emerge with residue. The tub may show foam build-up, or the water level sits noticeably low. In many cases the machine pauses, tries to drain, and then stops with the error.
First Check: Suds in the Tub
Open the door mid-cycle and look for persistent foam. If you see sudsy water, cancel the cycle so the unit performs a three-minute drain. If the pump can’t move the foamy mix, remove it manually with a cup or a wet/dry vac. Inspect the detergent dispenser for cracks or warping that could dump excess product; replace the dispenser if it leaks. Going forward, use dishwasher-only detergent (pods or powder/gel marked for automatic dishwashers). A small, safe trick to knock down foam during recovery is a teaspoon of cooking oil in the sump—then run several rinse cycles to flush the system.
If There’s No Suds: Verify Water Level
Start a new cycle and allow the fill to complete. Open the door: water should just touch the bottom of the overfill float (“mushroom”). If the level sits low, spray pressure collapses, air enters the pump, and the control reports 6–3. Check the load for bowls or containers that flipped and captured water; trapped water effectively lowers the tub level. Reload so open faces point down and large items don’t cap the spray.
Inlet Valve and Supply Path
When low level isn’t due to loading, focus on the water inlet valve and the house supply. Disconnect power and shut off the water. Remove the supply line at the valve and inspect the inlet screen: if it’s packed with grit, replace the valve (debris that clogged the screen can migrate into the valve body and cause sticking). If the screen is clear, briefly aim the supply line into a shallow pan and crack the shutoff to confirm strong flow from the house. Weak or no flow indicates a plumbing issue upstream that a plumber must correct. Reconnect the line, then examine the valve’s electrical connector; reseat it fully and repair any damaged harness leads before testing again.
Float, Overfill, and Air Leaks You Might Miss
Make sure the float moves freely and returns to its rest position; detergent residue can make it bind just high enough to signal “enough water” prematurely. Check the float switch area for debris. Inspect the sump and pump cover for proper seating—an out-of-place seal lets the pump pull air, mimicking a low-fill condition even when the tub looks correctly filled.
Power-Up Test and Confirmation
After clearing suds or restoring proper fill, run a rinse-only cycle. You should hear a strong, even spray pattern without gurgling, and the code should not return. Follow with a short wash to verify that heat, circulation, and draining behave normally.
Preventing a Repeat
Use only dishwasher-approved detergents and dose per water hardness; too much product or the wrong soap creates chronic foam. Load so nothing flips upright, keep the overfill float area clean, and check the inlet screen annually—especially after plumbing work—so mineral flakes don’t starve the valve. Good habits here keep the pump primed and the 6–3/F6E3 error off your display.