F8E2 indicates an electrical fault in the drain pump circuit. The control expects a normal electrical load from the pump during drain; when it sees an open, short, or abnormal current draw, it halts the cycle and sets this code. Because the drain pump clears water between phases, any electrical issue here quickly stops normal operation.
What You’ll Notice
Cycles may pause with standing water in the sump, the machine may hum without moving water, or it may remain silent during the drain step. You might also hear the pump start and then shut off immediately, which suggests the control detected an out-of-range electrical condition.
Safety First
Shut off power at the breaker before touching wiring or removing panels. If the unit recently ran, allow components to cool and mop out pooled water to avoid spills when you open the sump area.
Likely Causes
Most F8E2 cases come from a failed drain pump motor, overheated or seized impeller that stresses the motor, a loose or oxidized connector, or a damaged harness between the pump and the control. Less commonly, a control-board relay or driver fails and misreports the circuit condition. Mechanical blockages can coexist with electrical faults—an obstructed impeller can overheat the motor and damage windings—so you should verify both the electrical path and the pump’s ability to turn freely.
Step-by-Step Diagnosis
Restore safe access by removing the toe-kick and lower panels. With power still off, reach the pump at the sump outlet and inspect the connector for a positive latch and clean, untarnished pins. Trace the harness toward the control, watching for pinch points along the cabinet frame and any insulation nicks or heat marks. Spin the pump impeller with a fingertip; it should move smoothly without grinding or excessive wobble. If you have a multimeter, disconnect the pump and measure resistance across its terminals. A healthy reading shows finite, stable ohms at room temperature—not “OL” (open) and not near zero (short). Flex the harness gently while observing the meter to expose intermittent breaks. If resistance looks good, back-probe the harness at the control end (power off) to confirm continuity end-to-end; a good pump with a bad harness will still trigger F8E2.
Repair Approach
Correct any loose or corroded connectors, repair or replace damaged harness sections, and clear foreign objects from the impeller cavity. If the pump reads open or shorted, or if it fails under load after a cold start, replace the drain pump assembly. When installing a new pump, seat the seal evenly, route the harness along its original path, and ensure the connector locks fully. Only consider the main control after you’ve verified a known-good pump and intact wiring still produce the same error, as board faults are far rarer than pump or harness issues.
Verification After Repair
Restore power and run a service or quick cycle with the dishwasher empty. The unit should initiate drain immediately, discharge water with a steady stream, and transition into fill without posting F8E2. Open the door briefly mid-cycle to confirm the tub is clearing between phases, then let the cycle complete to verify stable behavior.
Preventive Maintenance
Clean the filter screens regularly so debris doesn’t migrate to the pump. Rinse large food scraps from dishes, and avoid seeds, glass shards, or twist ties that can jam the impeller. Keep the kick-space dry and check for slow leaks—water intrusion near the connector accelerates corrosion and makes electrical faults more likely. Periodic inspection and quick cleanup around the sump area go a long way toward preventing another F8E2.