9-2 (F9E2) tells you the diverter system isn’t parking correctly. The diverter motor should rotate a cam to route water to different spray zones and then stop at a “home” position. When the control keeps seeing the motor energized or never sees the home signal, it flags the code. In many cases the diverter is mechanically stuck or wet with debris; in others the relay on the control board keeps the motor powered when it shouldn’t.
How the diverter works in normal cycles
During a wash, the control powers the diverter motor to shift spray between the lower arm, upper arm, or a split pattern. A position sensor or cam “notch” tells the control when the valve reaches home so it can shut power off. If the cam can’t move freely, if the position signal never changes, or if the relay welds closed, the motor stays “on” and the control aborts the cycle with 9-2.
What you’ll notice in the kitchen
You may hear repeated clicking near the sump, uneven spray performance, or a cycle that stalls early. Dishes on one rack might come out dirty because the valve never switches zones. Some units drain and refill repeatedly while hunting for a position that never arrives.
First steps that actually help
Cut power at the breaker or unplug the machine, then let standing water cool before you work around the sump. Restore power and try a simple restart once; if the code returns quickly, move on to inspection rather than repeating resets.
Mechanical inspection around the sump
Pull the lower rack and spray arm, lift out the filters, and look into the sump area. Clear food fragments, toothpicks, labels, and hard water scale that collect around the diverter cam. Spin the spray arm hub by hand and feel for grit that suggests debris migrated deeper. If your model allows, remove the sump cover to view the diverter cam and seal; the cam should rotate without scraping, and the seal should sit flat with no tears or warping. Any binding or white mineral buildup can hold the cam off home and keep the motor energized.
Electrical sanity checks without turning it into a teardown
With power off, reseat the diverter motor connector and the position-sensor lead so the locking tabs click. Trace the harness back toward the control and look for pinched insulation, heat discoloration, or green/white oxidation on terminals. If moisture intruded after a leak or a foamy detergent event, dry the harness and sump area thoroughly before retesting; a wet sensor can report nonsense positions and confuse the control logic.
Differentiating motor, sensor, and control faults
After a thorough clean and reseat, power up and run a service or short cycle. If the diverter briefly moves and then the code returns, focus on the motor and cam—they likely still bind under load. If the motor never twitches but you measure voltage delivered when the cycle starts (pro test), the motor or cam is seized. If the motor turns freely by hand and briefly runs in a cycle but never parks, suspect the position sensor or its signal back to the control. If the motor keeps humming whenever the unit has power—even when logic says “off”—the control’s diverter relay likely stuck closed and needs replacement with the correct board for your model and revision.
When parts replacement makes sense
Replace the diverter motor and cam assembly if you find a swollen seal, a cracked cam, or a motor that stalls once warmed. Replace the position sensor if the cam rotates but the control never sees home. Move to the electronic control only after you rule out mechanical binding and sensor signal problems; control failures occur but less often than sump-side issues. Always match parts to the full model and serial to avoid firmware mismatches.
Verifying the fix
Reassemble the sump and filters, restore power, and run a quick wash. Listen for a single, clean diverter move early in the cycle rather than constant hunting. Check spray on both racks within the first few minutes, then open the door mid-cycle and confirm the arm that should be active is wet and dripping while the other pauses. Let the unit complete a full wash and dry to ensure the code doesn’t return.
Preventing another 9-2
Rinse heavy food scraps into the trash instead of the dishwasher, seat filters correctly after cleaning, and avoid gel detergents that foam and carry food into the sump. Every few months, pull and wash the filter set, wipe around the spray hubs, and run a machine-clean cycle to dissolve scale. These small habits keep the diverter cam clean, the seal smooth, and the motor from fighting debris that leads to F9E2.