F02 means the washer can’t evacuate water fast enough. You’ll often see SUD first when excess foam slows the drain; if the control still senses water after several minutes, it escalates to F02. The machine protects itself from running the pump indefinitely and from spinning a tub that’s still heavy with water.
Clear the Code and Make the Area Safe
Start by clearing the code and stopping the cycle. Power the unit off, then safely disconnect it so you can inspect the drain path end-to-end.
Work From the Tub Outward: Coin Trap / Clean-Out
Begin at the internal lint trap (coin trap) just before the pump. Place a shallow pan and towels under the access, crack the cap slowly to relieve pressure, and remove lint, threads, hair ties, coins, or detergent gel that congeals into a plug. Spin the pump impeller with a finger; it should turn freely and feel solid on its shaft. A seized or wobbly impeller, or missing plastic fins, will stall drainage even if the motor runs.
Follow the Flow: Outlet, Hose, and Standpipe
Trace the outlet from the pump to the external drain hose. Kinks behind the cabinet, crushed sections at clamps, or a standpipe packed with lint can all stall flow. Pull the hose from the standpipe and confirm a clear path; if the washer drains into a sink, make sure the sink trap and air gap stay open. Re-seat the hose at the specified height so the machine doesn’t siphon or fight head pressure during drain.
Interpreting SUD Before F02
If SUD showed first, correct detergent use before retesting. Use true HE detergent, dose for load size and soil, and avoid mixing pods with liquid boosters. Run a Clean Washer cycle if it’s overdue; biofilm and soap residue inside the tub outlet and hoses can shed into the trap and reform new clogs.
Electrical and Sensor Checks (Power Off)
With power still off, inspect the pump connector for a tight fit and dry, untarnished pins. If you have a multimeter and feel comfortable, confirm the pump windings show continuity and gently flex the harness while measuring to rule out an intermittent break. Check the water-level sensing path as well: the small pressure hose from the tub’s air dome to the control can clog with residue. Detach it at the control end, blow it clear, and inspect the air dome for sludge; a blocked pressure signal can trick the board into “seeing” water long after the tub is empty.
Test Run and Observation
Restore power and run a Drain/Spin or quick test with an empty drum. The pump should start immediately, water should move strongly through the hose, and the code should not return. If the washer drains normally with the hose directed into a bucket or sink but fails when connected to the standpipe, the restriction lives in the building plumbing rather than the appliance.
When Flow Still Lags
If you still hear the pump hum without movement after a thorough clean-out and hose check, suspect a worn impeller or a pump that no longer builds pressure under load. Revisit the coin trap and hose bends for anything you missed, then evaluate pump condition.
Keep F02 From Returning
Clean the coin trap on a schedule, use only HE detergent at the correct dose, and keep the external venting or standpipe clear and at the correct height. Empty pockets—small items and debris are the number-one source of recurrent blockages—and run a monthly maintenance cycle to dissolve residue before it hardens in the drain path.